Logbook entries
"We can inspire change in our biological environment by demanding it in our cultural environment" -- me (thought for the day)
"Cultural evolution is much faster than biological evolution." -- Fred Felleman
"Wildlife management has nothing to do with managing wildlife, but everything to do with managing people." -- Fred Felleman
08.27.2005: First week's adventure
So... wow!! This place is truly paradise. Despite all my nervousness I feel unbelievably comfortable and at home here. I have found my niche among both nature and people. My first experience was on the ferry over here... crazy how they load up cars and hop from island to island. I didn't watch most of the ride because I was sleeping. It was really really late and even later central time. The next morning I met my roomies and other classmates. All of us so different and yet connected through our common interest... I have found that it is one of the best ways to make fast and deep friendships.
The first day we went out to Lime Kiln on the west side of the island near the lighthouse and we got to see the beautiful Orca whales!!!! Equally exciting we were able admire some Harbor Seals playing on the rocks and in the sun.... what a first day right?
Then, classes start and then I realize I am truly in heaven. We hear amazing speakers such as Fred Felleman and Rich Osborne, both renowned scientist and activist in this community. We learn new and interesting things every single minute... quite a cognitive challenge! The most surprising was going out to Val Veirs' house on the west side of the island and learning to locate our exact location on a map... without the help of GPS; rather using rulers, straight edges and compasses... with the help of a few landmarks of course. Whew.... it was such a challenge because it was something I had never done before. (really getting a taste of what it will be like to sail).
If that isn't enough, I can walk maybe 50 yards down to the shoreline to view the sparkling Salish Sea, with Friday Harbor (the town) in clear sight. As a friendly reminder that I'm really here, I hear the ferry horn blowing ever so often throughout the day. It makes me smile every time I hear it.
Then, the day of reckoning. THE SWIM TEST. Yes, thats right, swim test. Did I mention it is really cold here, especially for a southerner and the water even colder. However, Beam Reach board members said we had to swim in the water to be able to row. So reluctantly, we all had to jump in.. Nicole and I were the first. Tightly holding hands and listening to the cheers of our peers and teacher, we make the decision to go in... but wait.... no no no.. we back up, giggling fearfully as we endlessly try to convince ourselves to jump in... in our swimsuits no less!! Finally!!! After lots of contemplation we plunge in. Screeching and then splash.. several really deep breaths then an exasperating "oh shit" as the coldness of the water really settles in. As a few long seconds of being totally brain dead and overwhelmed by the instinct to panic, we realize we can swim and oh do we. We swam to the boat and then back to the barge. It was terrible... honestly, terrible. But we conquered the most evasive experience thus far and probably for the whole ten weeks. Our other two female peers swam all the way to shore... INCREDIBLE!!! Then our two boy peers reluctantly jumped into the water, swam to the boat and back. By this point we are all cheering each other on.
So all of that... just to be able to row. Well, row we did. Unfortunately, rowing against the current is no fun at all and hardly worth jumping in to the freezing cold water. (did I mention you get hypothermia within 15 minutes and lose some cognitive functioning and mobility as in little as five minutes!!) So yea, really cold water. Anyways, it took Nicole, Freddy and I FOREVER to get into town. We all had to take turns and the current was terrible. We had to have someone help drag us into the harbor. After mingling in town and being harassed by some drunk guy we decided to head back... this time in the dark. So Celia and Laura met us up there because they wanted to walk and pick an abundant amount of blackberries on the way. So Freddy and Celia traded out and Celia, thankfully, rowed Nicole and I home, with some help from Nicole too! The wind was down so there was hardly and current, but our arms were tired and Celia seemed to have enjoyed the experience. The next morning we headed into town, via car, to check out the Whale Museum. It was informative and so much fun. I even bought a sweatshirt and baseball hat! After the museum and grocery shopping (for days when the caf is closed) we headed back to town.
You would have thought we had learned, but again Nicole and I decided to brave the row boat... later that afternoon! This time all by ourselves. The wind was up, the tide was up and the current strong. It took us an hour to get into town with blistered hands and windblown hair. Shortly after arriving, Celia, Laura and Freddy called wanting to go to Lime Kiln to watch for whales. So they picked us up in town to head the lighthouse. We got quite lost and what turned into an hour long trip was only supposed to take about 15. But the windows were down, the music up and the scenery majestic. Upon arriving, within 45 minutes we saw the whales again!!! We must be blessed by the island gods, because the whales seem to appear every time we are around. Truly blessed.
Check out the photo archive for some great pics!
So we head back into town and Nicole and I hop into the row boat to head back to the labs. We made it within fifteen minutes! The ocean was a little more kind and it was right at sunset... you can imagine the experience... Right as we head to the barge to load up our boat and oars (and life jackets of course) I hear the horn of the ferry and think .... what a wonderful place and how much grace I have been given to be a part of it.
My first week has been nothing less than magical, exciting and adventurous. I expect only more amazing experiences ahead, both in the classroom and among nature.
Love to all my friends and family who may be taking a part of my life by reading my journal entries.
-Courtney
Just wanted to give a shout out to my little sis ashlyn!!!!? I love you and miss you. Hang in there through your last year... and remember to have fun!!! xoxo - cory
09.01.2005: Academic Encounters
Wow! I can't believe that a second week has already past. My brain is screaming for a break and my eyes for sleep, but i'm still living in paradise and enjoying every minute of my island experience. On Monday, we observed a porpoise necropsy... yuck! By far the most bloody educational experience i've ever had! The one thing I remember is how extremely large the testicles were! Go ahead, look at the pictures yourself and then tell me what you think.... :P They are the largest body to testicle ratio among all mammals! Honestly, it must have been the size of my lung. It proved to be a crucial part of the whole experience, because there were suspicions that the porpoise was a hybrid between a Dall's and Harbor porpoise. Because the male Harbor porpoise's are so highly sexed (for the reason mentioned above) they propagate with just about anything. The rest of the day was spent working with logarithms and the physics of acoustics... how about that for a cranial challenge?
Tuesday was also spent working with the physics of acoustics and the propagation of sound in addition to learning the geology and physical oceanography of the Salish Sea, which includes: Puget Sound, Georgia Basin and the Strait of Juan De Fuca.
Wednesday was spent working on the barge out on the water with acoustic instrumentation. Working with hydrophones and Orca calls to make measurements about sound transmission loss and to practice in field all the physics we were learning. It was a lot of fun and a great application tool... really! Then we got great news about Wolf Hollow, a wildlife rehabilitation center, releasing 8 of its abandoned harbor seal pups. I got the whole experience on film!! It was right off of National Geographic or Animal Planet. The pups were really reluctant to going out into the water and tried repetitively to go back into their plastic crates!!! The little guy had to be dumped...literally out of his cage and then continued to orient toward shore for at least an hour if not more. The rest of the pups wandered off, but after about an hour returned to shore, gathering in a little huddle. I could just hear them saying "Well... now what?" Poor babies. I know the experience is meant to be as gentle as possible, but the look on their faces showed that they were terrified! After that, the rest of day was lots of lecture and class time spent catching up on acoustic data analysis.. wheewwww.
Thursday was also a lot of fun because we discussed some really controversial essays about the disappearance of the tribal people on Easter Island in the morning and then got to hear Lynne Barre speak from NOAA/NMFS. NOAA stands for National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration and NMFS stands for the National Marine Fisheries Service. She talked mostly about the new Conservation Plan for the Orca Whales and the legislative processes of NMFS concerning the MMPA, marine mammal protection act and the ESA, endangered species act. Right down my alley. I loved it. Additionally we were able to have lunch with her after having most of the morning with her. She has been one of the many awesome speakers we have had. Law school looks more and more interesting, especially concerning environmental policy. I hope that she remains a contact for me and an outlet for information in the future.
So overall it has been another fabulous week. However, I have been struggling concerning the disaster back home. With my broken heart, I have found it hard to concentrate and enjoy this experience while knowing so many are suffering. I just have to remember how hard I worked to get here and how so many of my family members sacrificed for me to be here... the disaster has helped me to stay grateful. I have shed more tears this week than in the past 6 months, but the beautiful water and supportive friends I have made here have helped. So when you read this and think of me, think of Louisiana too and think about all those (both human and animal) and keep us (them) in your thoughts. Louisiana is my past, my memories. Louisiana is my comfort, my family. Louisiana is and always will be, my home. I truly feel the depth of this tragedy. Love to all my family and friends. I miss you all dearly and will be thinking about you all a lot over the next two months as you deal with the disaster relief.
On a happier note, this weekend is labor day... yeah!!!! A much needed long weekend. Every student is leaving town except me and Nicole. Don't worry... we are going to have a blast. It is already in our plans to rent mopeds and ride to the west side of the island to Lime Kiln to watch the whales, carve in our newly gathered rock collection, watch girly movies and row into town. (Not to mention working on our research proposal). We'll probably do some hiking in our island forest too! My brain is looking forward to the break! No matter what happens this weekend, i'm sure it will be an adventure. Nicole and I can always find ways to get into some mischief!
Updates on weekend fun later -
09.07.2005: Where does the time go?
I can't believe we are already in our THIRD week!!! Well Labor Day weekend ended up being fabulous... mostly because Nicole and I did absolutely nothing. Thats right, we were in paradise and did nothing. What can I say, we really needed the break, physically and mentally. However, on Saturday we spent all day in the town of Friday Harbor, tinkering in stores, eating pizza and enjoying ice cream. It was tons of fun. We interacted with lots of people in the community, making conversation with all the small business owners and sometimes walking away with friends. *smile* We even caught a ride back to the labs with one of the store owners, because it was too late and she didn't want us walking. People around here are so friendly and open. The northwest is definitely a breath of fresh air, both literally and figuratively.
Then the rest of the weekend we worked on our research proposals. I am currently looking into studying cultural transmission through vocalizations. I hope to take advantage of the many new calves among our Southern Residents and spend some time studying and comparing the younger vocalizations with those of the adults. It is still a work in process... lots more reading to do, but i'll keep you all posted!
Then Monday night came... and at last!! our room-mates returned!!! They even came bearing gifts. A hand towel for the bathroom, yummy Argentinian cookies, flavored candy canes and smell good stuff (I think we stank). Its amazing what you get excited about out here. I have learned even more so, to truly appreciate everything. Living with strangers truly inspires community and part of that is constantly being grateful for one another. So needless to say, we caught up on the long weekend and dozed off.
Oh yea... Nicole and I FINALLY showered Monday before the room-mates showed up. Don't ask me, because I have no idea how long it had been... really.. it was that long...!
Tuesday morning we had someone from the Natural Resources Economics department of NOAA, Mr. Haynie, come and speak to us. Yet another incredible speaker. He really brought to light some interesting issues dealing with conservation that I had never really considered before. Such as, what are the cost/benefits of a MPA (Marine Protected Area). How much is it benefiting the ecosystem, versus how much it may be costing the fishing industry. Sometimes small areas, probably offering a little protection, cost the industry MILLIONS of dollars. Incredible!!! However, sometimes the benefit of having the protected area is priceless compared to that of actually monetary loss. I realized that it was as equally important to protect our economy as it is to protect our ecosystems. After all, a poor economy cannot offer the necessary resources that a MPA requires, so it is crucial to consider both the individual and the industry while seeking options to protect marine habitat. A really great opportunity and an eye-opening experience!
Wednesday morning we rowed into town to sit in on the Marine Reserve Committee meeting. It was so interesting to see the actual review process for grant proposals and the type of dialogue that takes place at a relatively political level. The grant proposals were discussing research efforts and habitat plans that could benefit the endangered salmon population here (bad both for fishermen and the Orcas). It was a pretty long meeting, but absolutely worth while. I anticipate going back and sitting in on another meeting in the next two weeks, mostly to witness the progress they have made in many of their decisions.
Then we went to the grocery store to do our weekly shopping (talk about an adventure). It is somewhat challenging to make 7 people happy, but extremely important. We all work well together, so it ends up being a relatively painless process. So we hauled our groceries to our row boats and rowed back to the labs. After unloading the groceries we enjoyed a long lunch break and some down time to joke around and relax. It was so wonderful outside that we all ended up going down to the docks (even the advisor meetings) to enjoy the warm weather... and contemplate jumping in!!! Laura was the fearless leader in this situation and we all stupidly followed her.... for about 3 minutes... then decided to sit and be happy on the dock.. in the sun.. not the water!
Class then resumed. We spent some time talking about the food chain, relative to Resident Orcas, and made our way down to phytoplankton. So Scott led us down to the docks once again, with some microscopically tiny-holed nets to catch the very bottom of the food (phytoplankton). (actually the nets were made more for zooplankton, but still microscopically tiny) After collecting two full jars of zooplankton and a lonely shrimp we headed back to get ready for dinner... except... wait! Brett dared me to take a drink of this zooplankton delight AND pay me $5 dollars if I did so. So....what did I do... of course I did it!!! Just a little sea water. I lead the way, taking the ballsy dare, passed it down to Scott... then to Freddy. Thats right.. three of us were crazy enough to drink this stuff. It was very salty (way more so than the gulf), with a fishy after taste... yes it was the same container the shrimp was swimming around in. We didn't get paid, but I can say that i've drank the Salish Sea!!!
Lastly, Freddy cooked us some incredible Puerto Rican dinner and Celia some fruit crapes for dessert. Talk about good eatin!
So we are nearly completing our third week on this incredible journey and the time is flying by. One of these tomorrows I will be going home.. I'm thankful its not the next one.
yours truly-
ps... Nicole and I now have a pet Anemone... The same phylum as the jellyfish, but much much much smaller. It sticks to the bottom of the ocean floor near the shore, wading around in the low tides. When you touch them, they close up...soo cool! His name is Andy... We keep him in a jar and add fresh sea water regularly. *sigh* I'm no longer a charming nerd, i've definitely moved up to total geek!
09.12.2005: Einstein and Beckham
"A human being is part of a whole, called by us the "Universe," a part limited in time and space. He experiences himself, his thought and feelings, as something separated from the rest - a king of optical delusion of his consciousness. This delusion is a king of prison for us, restricting us to our personal desires and to affection for a few persons nearest us. Our task must be to free ourselves from this prison by widening our circles of compassion to embrace all living creatures and the whole nature in its beauty." -- Albert Einstein
"Impossible is just a big word thrown around by small men who find it easier to live in the world they've been given than to explore the power they have to change it. Impossible is not a fact. It's an opinion. Impossible is not a declaration. It's a dare. Impossible is potential. Impossible is temporary.? Impossible is nothing." -- David Beckham